20. Sep 2023
Servia - Fteri
Route Info:
24.37 km
1309.00 hm
ca. 7h20m
View track detail
The weather forecast last night was showing rain and thunder storms for all day today. I needed to hike over this mountain, 1309 altitude meters, and did not want to do it in the rain or with lightening striking above me. I was so relieved this morning to see the clouds pushed back. For me it was an answer to prayer.
Photo 2: On the other side of the mountain I passed through what seemed to be a never ending herd of cows coming my way. It was probably a good half hour that they kept coming. I sang my pilgrim song as I walked by. They seemed to freeze when they saw and heard me, and then moved on once I passed them. I never had cows react like that before when I would walk by them on an open field.
Photo 3: My plan was to stay the night at the first village on the other side of the mountain, Fteri. When I got there, there was no one to be seen. There was no grocery store that I could see, no restaurant, no place to stay the night. I needed at least a roof where I could pitch my tent under it, as rain was expected all night. I did see a roof from a church that would work for me like the other night, but I would have to climb over a wall to get to it. What do I do? I prayed and decided to go another 10 kilometers to the next village which was much smaller. About halfway there this car passes me and stops with these three young men in it. They ask me if I need any help. I said that I cannot find a place to stay the night, that I saw no one in the last village and was now going to the next one, Skotina. They replied that I cannot go there, that no one lives there anymore, and when people would go to the village, they all leave by night. I asked why? I did not expect their answer: "Because there are ghosts which come out at night..." and they were serious. I responded: "I am not afraid of ghosts. Jesus walks with me and he has already defeated on the cross Satan who is the chief of all ghosts! And if no one is there, then I will not bother anyone if I put my tent up somewhere!" I then added: "Are you not Christians? You need to believe what Jesus has done for you on the cross!" I prayed for them that God would give them the courage that faith in Jesus will give them.
I continued on. About three kilometers before the village it started to rain. Why does it have to rain now, I thought. As I was getting my rain gear out of my backpack, the car with the three young men came back. They said they saw it was raining and decided to turn around and come back to offer to take me to the village. Many times people have offered to take me part of the distance, but I always decline unless I feel that God wants it.
We parked by a footbridge that leads to the village. The driver left the motor running. They walked with me to the bridge where this picture was made. I encouraged them to continue on with me to the village. The driver went back to the car to turn off the motor. We went up the path and came to the first house. I went with one of them inside it, while the other two continued on to the main part of the village. The house had furnishings, but was deserted. It was obvious that no one had been there for quite awhile. Other houses were borded and locked up. Some were slowly becoming ruines. And then there were some that looked to be still in use.
I continue walking down the way my foot path would be the next day. Vacant homes. No one in sight. The one young man who was with me went to find his friends. I also turned back and found the three of them at the church. It was open. Candles were burning before the icons. "There is obviously still someone who comes here," I said, and then began to sing my pilgrim song. The rain had stopped. The three of them were eager to get back to the car. I continue to walk up the street, then turned around and shouted to the three: "Do not let fear controll you! If you are standing in the love of God, fear cannot get a hold of you!"
It was actually a very quaint village, old homes build with stones. Then I saw a car parked in front of one house. I went to investigate. A man came around the corner who spoke English and German. He had heard what I yelled out to the other three and asked me to repeat it. He said that people say that mysterious things happen here, but this was the house his great grandfather had built. His brother from Switzerland was also there visiting. He came out as well, and invited me to join them for a grill evening. There were waiting for a third brother to arrive. If he would come, they would stay the night there. I asked where I might be able to find a place to sleep or put my tent up under a roof. They suggested that I sleep in the church... which I did. I set up camp in the gallery, just in case someone might come in at night or in the early morning. I did not want to give them a scare seeing a body laying on the floor.
At eight in the evening I went over to the three brothers for dinner. After I prayed for our meal and time together, the one brother asked me this question: "What is the purpose of life?" What a great question! For the next hour and a half we ate and had a God-talk. At one point the first brother I met asked me: "Are you not afraid?" He then asked me to repeat to his brothers what I said to the three young men. At the end of the evening I prayed a prayer of blessing for each of the brothers. How do I know that they were not ghosts? I shook their hands and they ate food. (See Luke 24:39-43)
Photo 4: The ghost village. You can see the church where I spent the night. It did rain all night, so I was glad to have a roof over my head. The candles were in oil and burnt all night. It was actually quite cozy.
Photo 5: The three "Ghost" Brothers